This is a good time to plan changes to the garden if you need to and also a good time to plan your vegetable crop rotations for the coming year.
Tidy, organise and clean the shed and tools.
Check stakes and ties and other forms of support for damage.
In cold spells, protect non frost-proof containers with bubble wrap or fleece to prevent them from cracking.
Gently remove snow from plants. Branches will break if they get too weighed down.
Dig over borders and vegetable beds now so that the soil has ample time to settle over winter. This is particularly true for clay soil, because the sction of frost will help to break up all the clods, giving a finer crumb.
Cut down and compost the annuals. Cool seasoned annuals are still available; Ice poppy, Viola, Stock, Cavendula and Primrose are a good option.
Prune Rhododendron, Hellebore, Lonicera (Honeysuckle), Jasmine and climbing roses.
Start to cut back ornamental grasses and other perennials left for winter interest.
By trimming the hedges now you will see the benefits all winter and spring, as they should not start to grow again before May. Conifers, however, are the exception, if you trim them now, they may develop brown patches, so it's best to wait until spring.
Prune apple and pear trees.
Plant window boxes and containers for seasonal colour.
This month is a good time to plant fruit trees and canes.
Cover your vegetable to promote early growth.
Prepare the ground for Asparagus. Plant garlic cloves either in pots to transport later.
In frosty conditions, keep off the lawn as you may damage the grass.
On a dry day, rake up fallen leaves if they haven't already been done. If they are left on the lawn, they will encourage the growing of moss.
Divide bulbs such as snowdrops, and plant those that need planting in the green.
Deciduous vines such as Wisteria and honeysuckle should be pruned. Passion flower and Jasmine can be thinned out, so that they have a neat framework of branches.
Trim winter flowering Heathers as the flowers fade. Shears are the ideal tool to use to cut back heathers. This will prevent the plant from becoming leggy and bare.
Cut back perennials.
Prune Camelia, Penstermen, Rhododendron and Hydrangea.
Delay pruning spring-flowering shrubs until immediately after flowering, otherwise this years display will be lost.
Mid to late February is the time to fertilize your shrubs and evergreens.
Spray fruit trees with a winter wash, This will kill overwintering eggs of pests and will also help remove algae.
Make sure trees and shrubs have no broken branches. Cut them off as close as possible to the main branch.
Plant window boxes and containers for seasonal colour. Pansies are a good option and need to be planted in a bright sunny position to encourage maximum growth.
Plant trees and shrubs for winter effect and seasonal colour.
Net fruit and vegetable crops to keep birds off.
If not already done, prune raspberry canes to 6 inches.
Mow the lawn if the weather is mild enough. Ensure that the first cut is light and the blades are set to a high level.
In late March, apply a high nitrogen spring/summer lawn fertilizer to encourage good, strong growth to help the lawn recover after the winter.
Weeds will now come back into growth. Deal with them before they get out of control.
Once the weeds are cleared, lighter soils can be mulched now, but heavier soils are best left until late March, when the soil is warmer. Mulching with a deep layer of organic matter helps to condition the soil, suppress weed growth, improves the drainage, insulate plant roots from temperature changes and conserve soil moisture during the summer.
Lift and divide summer flowering perennials and herbaceous plants.
Divide hostas before they come into leaf.
Protect new spring shoots from slugs.
Cut back Cornus (dogwood) and Salix (willow).
Prune Camelia, Ceanothus and Rhododendron.
Prune climbing and shrub roses.
This is the best month to plant roses. Feed roses with a granular rose fertilizer as they come into growth.
Plant summer flowering bulbs. Early spring is also an ideal time to plant herbaceous perennials, including Geranium, Atrantia and Oriental poppies.
Open the greenhouse or conservatory doors on warm days.
Keep weeds under control. Mulch flower beds to help eliminate weeds and conserve moisture.
Increase the water given to house plants and to the plants and shrubs outside.
Tie in climbing and rambling roses as near to horizontal as possible. This will restrict sap flow causing more side shoots to grow along the length of stem. Therefore more flowers will be produced.
Remove tired winter bedding and plants that did not survive the winter.
Divide asters.
Remove faded Tulip flowers, nipping off the heads and seed pod at the same time.
Deadhead pansies, primulars and other spring bedding plants. Pansies will carry on into the spring and into early summer, if attended to, frequently.
Prune Lavender and other slightly tender plants. Make the cuts just above fresh, new shoots.
Prune less hardy shrubs like Ceanothus, Fushia and Hydrangea.
Prune early flowering shrubs like Forsythia and Berberis as soon as they have flowered.
Prune Clematis. Cut back to just above a strong pair of leaf buds about 30cm (12 in) above soil level. This will encourage multiple stems which can be trained to supports to give good coverage.
Prune Fig tree.
Plant summer flowering bulbs, if not done already. You can still plant herbaceous perennials such as Geraniums, Astrantia and Oriental poppies.
Apply a liquid fertilizer to spring bulbs after they have flowered, to encourage good flowering next year.
Lift and divide overcrowded clumps of daffodils, primroses and other spring flowering bulbs.
Tie in climbing and rambling roses as near to horizontal as possible. This will restrict sap flow causing more side shoots to grow along the length of stem. Therefore more flowers will be produced.
Twinning climbers such as honeysuckle and Clematis, need regular tying in and twinning around their supports.
Keep pests and diseases under control.
Fertilize roses, shrubs and vegetable beds.
Prune spring flowering shrubs such as Berberis, Viburnum and Choisya after flowering.
Prune dead stems of 'Clematis Montana' once it has finished flowering. You can cut this plant back quite hard.
Allow the foliage of daffodils and other spring-flowering bulbs to die down naturally.
Late May is a good time to coppice or pollard Eucalyptus.
Plant out summer bedding at the end of the month.
Plant onion setts and start thinning grapes as required.
Tackle bindweed as soon as you can see it appear in the garden.
Position summer hanging baskets and containers outside.
Late spring and early summer is the time to fertilize the lawn again.
Roses will need to be fertilized monthly this summer.
June, July, August and September are the months to start any of the perennials from seed.
Prune passion flowers and clematis. The aim for clematis is to retain a framework of old wood and also to stimulate new shoots in order to maximize flowering throughout the season. For better growth give a liquid tomato feed fortnightly for flowering clematis.
Spreading and trailing plants can be tatty and patchy. Trimming them back after flowering encourages fresh growth and new flowers. The same applies for deadheading annuals, which also should be done.
Cut back dead bulb foliage if not done already. It is important to wait until the foliage dies down naturally., as cutting back too early can lead to blindness next year.
Spring flowering shrubs such as Weiglia, Viburnum and Forsythia should be pruned as soon as they finish flowering.
Apple and Pear trees will shed some fruit., this is known as the 'June Drop'. This is quite natural, it's the trees way of restricting the amount of fruit that develop.
Plant out summer bedding.
Keep strawberries, raspberries, gooseberries and currents well supplied with water while the fruits are swelling and ripening.
Brussels sprouts, cabbage, carrots, celery, cucumber, beetroot, french beans, runner beans and lettuce rows can be thinned out and further sowings can be continued.
Carry on mowing the lawn once a week. Removing 'little and often' is the key to a good, quality lawn.
Keep hoeing borders regularly to keep the weeds down.
Give the lawn a quick acting summer feed, especially if a spring feed was not done.
If the grass has grown long whilst you have been on holiday, give it a cut with the blade set quite high and then lower a few days later, this reduces the chance of the grass going into shock and allowing weeds to get established.
Check all plants, especially newly planted ones, for water on a regular basis. Water deeply and throughly as needed. Regularly water trees and shrubs that were planted last autumn or winter. Their roots won't have had a chance to fully develop yet.
Ensure that the soil in the hanging baskets is moist. Cutting back plants in baskets, followed by a weekly liquid fertilizer feed can encourage new growth and help revive tired displays.
Feed flowering annuals, perennials and pot plants with a tomato liquid feed.
Place conservatory plants outside now that it's warm.
Cut back delphiniums and geraniums after the first finish of flowers to encourage a second flowering period. Feed after cutting them back.
Cut down the stems of bearded iris now that the blooms have faded and if too overcrowded, dig them up and divide them.
Prune summer flowering Jasmine and Wisteria. Prune Wisteria by shortening the whippy lateral shoots to about 6 buds for next years blooms.
Do not prune Azaleas and Rhododendrons after the second week of July for they soon will begin setting their buds for next years blooms.
This is the best time to cut Hawthorn hedges. If you cut them earlier they need another trim, but if you leave it any later the growth will be very tough and hard to cut.
Summer prune fruit trees.
Tomatoes should start fruiting this month. Use liquid tomato feed every week to ensure a nice crop.
Carry on mowing the lawn once a week, if possible.
Keep on hoeing borders regularly to keep down the weeds.
Feed containers and tired border perennials with a liquid tomato feed each week to encourage them to bloom into early autumn. Camelias, Azaleas and Rhododendrons should be watered if the weather is dry otherwise the flower buds for next year may not develop properly.
Stop feeding roses now. Feeding will encourage soft growth that won't have a chance to ripen before the winter. It will then be prone to diseases.
Alpines that have developed bare patches of die-back, or have become weedy, can be tidied up by filling in the patches with gritty compost. This will encourage new growth as well as improving their appearance.
Cut back the foliage and stems of herbaceous plants that have already died back.
Don't cut off the flower heads of ornamental grasses. These will provide winter interest.
Keep on deadheading flowering plants regularly to prolong the display of colour well into the autumn.
Pinch out the tops of Chysanthemums to encourage them to branch out and produce more flowers.
Prune climbing and rambling roses once the flowers have finished.
Prune Wisteria.
Trim decideous hedges.
Sow chicory, lettuce, spinach, spring cabbage and turnip.
Prune raspberries and gooseberries and tie in new shoots.
Keep on hoeing the borders regularly to keep down the weeds.
Net ponds before leaf fall gets underway.
Most perennial weeds are vulnerable to weedkillers in early autumn. Applying a product containing glyphosate will ensure that the roots, as well as the top growth, are killed.
Start to reduce the frequency of houseplant watering.
Divide herbaceous perennials.
Continue to deadhead plants such as Dahlia, Delphiniums, Rosa and Penstermen to prolong the display and give colour well into the month.
Don't neglect hanging baskets. Deadheading, watering and feeding can help them going until mid-autumn.
Scarify, aerate and top dress the lawn. Apply 'Autumn Lawn Food' to nourish your lawn through the winter months.
Prune climbing and shrub roses.
Give evergreen hedges a final trim to ensure they are neat for the winter.
This is a good time of the year to plant spring flowering perennials especially towards the end of the month as the soil is still warm.
Protect autumn raspberries and blackberries with netting to protect them from birds.
Plant new strawberry beds.
Clear crops once they have finished and dig over.
October
This may be the last chance to mow lawns, depending on how mild the weather is.
This is the last chance to scarify, aerate and top dress the lawn if it was not already done in September.
Rake up fallen autumn leaves regularly. Keep as many leaves off the lawn as possible to prevent them blocking light and air damaging the grass. This will also prevent the risk of moss and overwintering pests and diseases.
Move tender plants into the greenhouse or conservatory.
Remove stakes and other supports as herbaceous plants die down for the winter.
Start a new compost heap.
Cut back herbaceous perennials that have died down.
Prune climbing roses.
Trim Lavender to promote new growth.
Any remaining summer bedding plants struggling in the milder conditions are best cleared and replaced for a fresher display.
Once hanging baskets are past their best, re-plant with spring flowering bulbs, winter heathers, trailing ivies and winter bedding plants.
Daffodils, hyacinths, lilies and small bulbs are best planted in early October. Tulips are best planted towards the end of the month.
Now is a good time to plant new trees whilst the soil is still warm.
Prune fruit canes.
Dig over unused vegetable beds and apply manure.
November
If mild enough the lawn can have one final cut.
Weeds will still appear, hoe regularly to keep them down.
Clear up fallen leaves, especially from lawns, ponds and flower beds.
Wet September and October will have made many clay soils unworkable until spring. In these cases mulching will help to improve and maintain soil structure.
Avoid walking on the lawns in frosty conditions, it can damage the grass.
Make sure that you bring your tender plants and bulbs into a heated greenhouse or conservatory.
Weed killers are very effective in milder conditions. So if you missed the spring and early autumn application periods, you may still be able to spray in warmer conditions.
In cold spells, protect non frost-proof containers with bubble wrap or fleece to prevent them from cracking.
Lift and store Dahlias, Cannas and bedding bergonias that have been hit by the first frosts.
Climbing roses should be pruned now at the very least, and should preferably have been done much earlier in the autumn.
Ornamental grasses and bamboo can be cut back and tidied up.
Reduce the height of Lavatera, but leave the hard pruning until spring.
Established fruit trees can be winter pruned.
Complete the planting of Tulips as soon as possible this month.
Plant out winter bedding later in the month. Winter pansies, viola, ornamental cabbage, polyanthus, primroses and winter heathers are always a good option.
Finish the autumn tidy up of leaves from the lawns, ponds and flower beds if you have not done it already.
Reduce watering of houseplants and plants outdoors.
Re-cut and re-shape all lawn edges to tidy up the appearance of the garden, and save some work next season.
Prevent premature needle drop on your Christmas tree by choosing a pine or fir tree instead of the traditional Norway Spruce; these hold their needles for longer.
Check that the greenhouse heaters are working properly.
Provide fresh food and water for birds as food is scarce for them at this time of year.
Make sure that ponds and stand pipes are not frozen.
Check on tender plants outdoors to ensure winter protection is still in place, especially after winds and storms.
Continue to cut back herbaceous perennials and add them to the compost heap.
Dead head pansies, cyclamen and violas to encourage more flowers.
Prune acers, birches and vines before Christmas to avoid bleeding. Magnolia, Japanese maples, Walnuts, hornbeams and laburnums may bleed too if pruned too late in winter.
As long as the weather stays dry you can continue to plant evergreens.
Continue winter bedding.
Apply netting over your vegetable beds to keep birds away.
Clear away the remains of all your old crops and and put them on your compost heap.